The CANADIAN Trip
September 30-October 10, 2017
|
I found I had a 10 day
opening between vacation rental guests, during the Fall colors, so,
OFF I GO!!!!
....taking Route One headed NorthEast
towards the BOLD COAST of Maine scenic route,
heading
towards Lubec, the easternmost town in the US. |
|
Here's the map of the
first half of the adventure journey. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
After staying the night in
Lubec, my next step was to drive over the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Bridge (1962) to Campobello Island...FDR's 'cottage' estate. |
|
|
|
It reminded
me a bit of Sturbridge Village...historical rooms and equipment. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
And the gardens were small, but magnificent, especially for the end of
September. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
I had time for one hike and chose Friar's
Head...where I saw the first hints of what the tides were in this
area....the wet seaweed was 4 feet tall...and the tides were just past
high...had only begun to go out. |
|
|
|
Back to the mainland, driving up Route One
and back roads, taking in all the unique towns and natural beauty, I
came upon another hike with this lighthouse view. |
|
|
|
While many tourists stay at this
magnificent Algonquin hotel in St. Andrews... |
|
|
...I chose a much happier location at the
beach....my
favorite cottage...and its lovely sunset. |
|
|
|
|
Next day, off to Kingsbrae Gardens, in St.
Andrews. A small, but very creative garden. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
And then on towards Alma, where the Fundy tides
REALLY rise and fall. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Alma tides rise as much as 35-40 feet,
marked by seaweed. These caves are underwater when the tide is in. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
The boats sit on milk crates until the
tide comes in to float them again. |
|
|
|
The beach at Cape Enrage is covered with
the most beautiful, ocean-smoothed stones I've ever seen. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The wild tides scour the earth, eating
away at the edges of the land. |
|
|
On my fourth night of the adventure, I was
in Antigonish, Nova Scotia, ready to take a hard left and head north
towards Cape Breton Island. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The Inverness Golf Course....open to
Mother Nature's wild winds...and right next to the pounding ocean.
Awesome. |
|
|
|
|
|
After finding a place to stay in
Cheticamps, I had just enough time to drive up to the Skyline Trail, in
the Cape Breton Highlands National Park, to
hike 4+ windy miles for a memorable sunset...and moonrise. The full moon
was so bright, I didn't need my headlamp for the return trip! |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
All the hikers I passed had just seen a
female moose. I searched for her everywhere, even on side paths, but found only this
fresh evidence of her proximity. |
|
Here's the only wildlife I found
on this path. |
|
Next morning, I headed east through the
Cape Breton Highlands Park. I had
seen a bull moose on a secondary road in New Brunswick, but was so
surprised, that by the time I had braked and turned around, he had loped
off into the dark forest.
BUT, this auspicious morning, as I
headed east through the park, I had a one-on-one connection with the
MOST gorgeous bull moose of my life.
And he walked toward me and stayed a
while, before heading off into the forest. No one else was on the road.
It took my breath away. |
|
|
|
|
|
Look at this rack! |
|
|
|
|
|
A truly memorable connection with Nature! |
|
|
I had heard of a Buddhist Abbey in
northern Cape Breton Highlands, so went north to Meat Cove, only to find
that it was on the west side of the headland...hours back. Alas. Still,
the views were spectacular, despite the gray morning. |
|
|
Looks like they are always reinforcing the
land against the wind and tides. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
And the sun lit the sand spits to gold.
|
|
|
Then, unfortunately, when I went to take a
ridge hike at Cape Smokey, I had a bad fall on some pointy
rocks...avoiding coyotes...and thought I'd shattered my elbow.
I talked with the emergency people and decided to drive myself an
hour to the nearest hospital in Baddeck...and they weren't equipped for
fractures, so told me to return the next morning if I was worse...or
spend $1000 getting admitted for an xray!! (Since then, I've heard of
medical trip insurance for other countries, and will do that next time
for sure!) |
|
|
The next day dawned sunny and clear, and
after cleaning and soaking and bandaging the cuts again, I felt a little
better and too stubborn to give up my trip.
I bought a sling and an ice pack for the left elbow and hit the road. It
was a challenge to drive with one arm, but certainly doable. |
And here's
the map of the beginning of the second half of the adventure
journey, starting at Baddeck. |
|
I had fallen on my camera, so drove first to North Sydney to see
about technological aids, and had little luck, so changed lenses and
drove on to see the famous Bras d'Or Lake...gorgeous! |
|
|
|
|
|
|
And then I saw my other favorite natural phenomenon...a bald eagle!
I sat and ate lunch with him until he flew away. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
After taking a ferry across part of the Bras d'Or Lake, the ferry
master suggested I seek out a place called Liscombe Lodge for the
night.
|
The next morning, I set out on a hike they recommended, but found
that part of it was under mud and part of it was under the river...I
had to bushwhack up a cliff and through the trees to reach dry
ground....not worthy of repetition. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Liscomb to Halifax was lovely.... |
|
|
|
|
|
|
And the Halifax Gardens were colorful, celebrating Canada's 150th
anniversary. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Peggy's Cove was next on my list, but
luckily, I saw a few cars by the roadside and pulled over to
discover Polly's Cove, as magnificent in its 'lunar-looking' stone
formations as Peggy's Cove....and much less over-run with people.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Lunenburg was next... a colorful hill town, a miniature San
Francisco... |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
An even more colorful experience was Mahone Bay, decorated for
Halloween...and this long walk was the start of a day of driving all
the way to Digby, across the peninsula, where the fog was gathering.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
From Mahone I headed west to spend a
few hours tracking down and photographing a friend's lovely 120 acre
property in the Port L'Hebert area, untouched for over 20 years.
|
|
|
|
|
|
By the
time I reached Digby, the fog had thickened to pea soup, so I didn't
see the working waterfront, but did have a magnificent dinner of
Digby scallops.
The next morning was still foggy,
so my second to last day was spent enjoying the lovely harvest and
farm vistas of the Annapolis Valley, and driving to Truro to have an
excellent "Thanksgiving" turkey dinner. |
|
|
|
This
Annapolis valley is across the Bay of Fundy from the New Brunswick
pictures, and experiences the 35-40 foot tides, as well. |
|
|
|
|
As the
tides scour the earth from the coasts, it also digs out the salt and
these snow-looking piles are actually salt foam on the river. These
were evident on both sides of Nova Scotia...fascinating. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
People
have been living in this verdant valley for a long, long time. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
A long,
long time. |
|
|
|
|
The
rivers are mud brown, from all the tidal silt...and it must be
wonderful for the crops! |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Then, when it was still raining
heavily in Truro the next morning, I decided to make tracks for
sunshine...and home. |
|
And found that Fall had touched
Boothbay and mid-coast Maine as well...and it was also pretty as a picture.
Or come and journey with
me to the Deep South. |
|
|
|